Friday, September 3, 2010

Tour de Guatemala - Chichicastenango

There surely is a reward for every sacrifice. The 7200 vertical foot climb of yesterday meant one thing today. Lots of downhill racing. The 8 mph pace of yesterday would drive a cyclist to insanity. In the chase vehicle, using a six cylinder diesel engine to move at that speed, it was just plain mind numbing. Today was like the first sunrise in Antarctica after winter combined with the first cry of a newborn combined with the glory of witnessing a solar eclipse from a yacht in the South Pacific. We were greeted by the sun and expansive 360 degree views of volcanoes and Guatemalan pine forests up at 9000 feet above sea level. More importantly, the four lane highway was flown in overnight seemingly transplanted from a 40 mile stretch of the German Autobahn. Talk about quality construction. Descending from 9000 feet at 40 mph was a rush. I was in a car but could relate to the first test runs of Henry Ford’s internal combustion engine when going 30 mph must have been something to write home about.

Volcanoes above the clouds on a beautiful morning
Just when everything was approaching perfection on earth we were snapped back to Guatemalan reality. Reality came in the form of a huge mud slide that oozed out to block all four lanes probably 12 minutes before we arrived to the site of the obstruction. Road work, accidents and mudslides are so commonplace that mobile street vendors are ready to be called into action anyplace anytime. We didn’t need the drinks, fruit and boxes of hot Pollo Campero (Guatemalan KFC) that was being offered roadside. We took advantage, popped the cooler and proceeded to lunch during the wait while filming the cleanup efforts. The response was surprisingly quick and 30 minutes late we were on our way.

Mudslide!!!

A few blisteringly fast descents later and we were in freezing rain with frigid winds. Nothing that thirty minutes in a parked car with the heater blasting couldn’t fix. This part of Guatemala is gorgeous. Really. Pine trees, exposed cliff sides, indigenous folks and dozens of different languages abound. Soon we could see Chichicastenango in the distance, way down below. This meant one last snaking descent and the most intense climb of the trip. Thankfully, it wasn’t very long but this climb was steep. The guys were passing trucks on the uphill and I felt that the diesel engine could barely give enough to get me to the top. As I came alongside Pat all he could do was laugh and the sheer madness of the last climb into Chichi. Before we could really decide how we felt about it, it was over. We were greeted by the friendly staff at the Hotel Santo Tomas who didn’t quite donate a room. They were kind enough to knock off 50% from the price and kept blazing fires in our chimneys and fired up the Jacuzzi for us after dinner. Talk about a nice reward for a hard day’s work.

The cold and rain before the day's end
30 minute nap in a warm, parked car.  It's cold out there.
This is where it all wraps up. One day closer to Zacapa. Fire crackling in the chimney. Greg and Pat writing overdue postcards and I’m putting the finishing touches on this bad boy blog entry. See y’all later. Next stop Cunen, not sure what’s there. Don’t know if we’ll be able to connect at all.
Chichicastenango, pretty interesting city full of history and indigenous culture
Leaving Chichi in about an hour.  See you soon.

Dave

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